The quads don’t work there because there’s too much going on and they can slide. But, there’s some waves that are more suited to thrusters like bowly wave with lots of steps. They go so much faster, and they hold better. It makes it even harder to push yourself over the edge.įive plugs give you options. If I paddle out on someone else’s board, for the first wave I’m completely freaking because it’s unfamiliar. You want to be 100 percent concentrated on the conditions and waves. You need to have that confidence during a swell, you don’t want to be thinking about your equipment. If you’ve got a board that’s completely different to what you normally ride, take it out on a three foot day at your local beachie to get a feel for it before you’re in waves of consequence. Get comfortable on your board before a swell. Their theory is it holds into the waves better because there is two anchor points you can knife in with. I’ve never experimented with that, the rounded pin has always worked well for me. I was talking to Nathan Florence and a lot of those guys he travels with in Tahiti and they were saying they like small swallow tails in their step-ups. I find if I ride a light board in slabs and bigger waves I just skip everywhere and I can’t get very deep in the barrel. There’s often lots of wind when it’s bigger so that extra glass will keep your rails reactive. You need weight to keep the board in the water. Everyone picks my boards up and says, “This thing feels so gross and heavy.” But I prefer it, and I get them glassed very thick with six ounce glass all over. If you take you shortboard out in really good wave you’ll snap it.ĭon’t be afraid of weight.

If you’re not going out to do turns then take the few extra inches. Look for your step-up every time there’s hollow waves. Pack the step-up when it’s less about turns, more about tubes. You won’t need the tail pulled in as much. You need that responsiveness, but still glassed quite heavy for the strength. You’d want it to be a little bit more like your shortboard, with volume left in the tail. If you’re going to perfect waves you need a slightly different board. There’s boils and steps everywhere and if your board is too big it’ll catch on every hip. The board needs to be short enough to fit into the curve of the wave, and manoeuvrable enough to surf the wave. That’s a short, but intense paddle to get in, not a long, open ocean paddle like at a bombie where you’re covering heaps of distance. It’s not about getting in early, it’s about getting in on the right position of the wave, which is underneath the lip. Around home we have fast breaking, steep waves. Once it gets bigger than six foot, I’ll go up again to a 6’2”. My normal board is a 5’7”, and my go-to step-up for the South Coast is a 5’11”. A six foot wave will look different at every break. Step ups are decided by wave height and shape Sure, it’s yellow and battered but it lasts for three years because it’s glassed thick and works. I’ve learned from the older guys at home that it’s okay to go down to the local surf shop and get a board that’s a little bigger off the rack for $150.

It’s fine to start with an old work horse. How? Because your step-up will stay in one piece when it’s six foot-plus, and you’ll save money because you won’t need to replace the three shortboards you snapped this year pushing them beyond their limits. It might cost a bit more for the extra fibreglass but it’ll save you money in the long run.

A step-up will be the smartest addition to your quiver. How many times have you paddled out when the waves are at overhead or more and broken your board trying to duck-dive, or on your first wave? You need the right board to surf bigger waves the right way. A lot of surfers think they’re normal short boards will go in all conditions. It’s the difference between talking and doingĪ step-up surfboard is the difference between talking and doing. For confidence, for speed, and for an advantage that’ll set you apart, you need to add a step up to the quiver. And the biggest mistake surfers make when the size kicks is being on the wrong board. But what happens once those waves start offering up risk? Are you freaking once there’s a real bit of muscle when you come unstuck? It’s because your equipment is all wrong. Your make-rate is improving and everything’s kosher under head height. Interview by Lucas Townsend | Photos by Rod Owen

Quiver meaning surf